I was thoroughly rested as Mehmet, my tour guide, came and picked me up for a cultural and historical visit of the sites around Cappadocia (which I still haven't figured out the correct spelling for). I had decided that the best way to see the surrounding countryside and wired formations was to have a day of being driven round and not having to worry about anything.

Fortunately there were only 7 people on the tour and we managed to avoid the bus-loads of over-excited, photosnapping Japanese. One of the places we visited was a truly remarkable underground city. The region has 37 known underground cities and this one, at Derinkuyu, has seven levels going about 40m underground. These cities were used by Christians who normally famred the land above, but used the undergroudn cities as places to retreat to and live in until danger from their enemies had passed. There were all sorts of rooms rooms for grain storage, stables, sleeping chambers, kitchens, wells. a morgue and air shafts. Massive round stone slabs were used in true Flintstone style and were rolled accross the doorways to prevent enemy access. The narrow corridors meant the cities were extremely safe since attackers could enter only one by one and the occupants could use various sercret tunnels to outmanoeuvre their opponents. Derinkuyu, about 50 kms south of Goreme, was at one time the home of up to 20,000 people and the size of the city reflects this.

Before lunch we got out and walked about 4km through the stunning Ilhara valley cut from the soft stone by a river. In many ways it's reminiscent of a mini Grand Canyon except that everywhere you look there are ancient cave houses and churches that have been carved into the rock. We lunched by the river and then headed to Selime, an ancient monastery carved into rock but with scenery reminiscent of a Star Wars movie. But for me the real highlight of the tour, and indeed what made it relevant to my research, was a visit to the Agzhikaran Caravanserai. A stunning 13th Century hotel and Camel Bus station (as Mehmet put it) that was used by traders passing through. If you are interested in finding out more then I have ripped some info from the web and put it below!

We returned via a few more sights and a visit to a Jeweller's workshop (you cant get away without a visit to at least a carpet, pottery or jewellery shop here). Luckily the visit was more like a tour with an unpressured opportunity to buy at the end. And then headed off to watch the sunset over the fairy chimneys so characteristic of the landscape here. Imagine mushrooms made of rock and you have a pretty good idea of what the scenery looks like here, in the absence of me being able to post photos! Or just visit http://www.cappadociaonline.com/ which should give you a good idea!

Caravanserais...
From: http://www.cappadociaonline.com/karavan.html

"During the Seljuk Period, the most important three factors in trade were roads, caravans and inns. The caravans, during their long journeys, would stop at inns to rest in the evenings. They would set off again after having met their own and their animals' needs. The beginning of the caravansaries, first seen in the Central Asia during the times of Caravans, Ghaznavids and the Great Seljuk State, were building called "Ribat". These buildings, first constructed as small buildings for military uses, later were developed and changed into larger buildings and were used for both religious purposes and as inns for travelers.

Especially during the times of Seljuk Sultans Kilicarslan II and Alaaddin Keykubat I, the construction of these buildings accelerated and the security of the trading roads was provided by the state. The loss of the trades would be met by the states, that is, there was , in a way,an insurance system. During that period, both home and foreign trades prospered. In this way, the Seljuks, already strong economically, became politically strong too.

In the caravanserais, foreign traders as well as native ones would be put up for three days. Their shoes would be repaired, the poor would be given new shoes. The ill would be treated and animals would be tended, if needed the horses would be shoed. For their religious practices, they would use the "Kosk Mescid",  small mosque, in the centre of the courtyard. The "Kosk Mescid", usually located in the centre of the courtyard, was the most important part of the caravanserais. They are normally built on an arched base.

The courtyards are normally surrounded with bedrooms, depots, bath house and bathrooms. "Mangals" (braziers) or "tandirs" (oven in the ground) were used to heat the places whereas candles and lamps were used for light. All these services were provided by the people working in caravanserais; e.g., doctor, imam (prayer leader), depot officer, veterinarian, messenger, blacksmith, and cook. Stones cut from the volcanic rock were used in the construction of the caravanserais in the Region of Cappadocia. For defense purposes, their walls are like castle walls. Some of the best examples of Seljuk stonemasonry can be seen at the entrances, called "Tac Kapi". Although dragon, lion motifs and floral designs were among the ones frequently used, in the Cappadocia region generally geometrical designs were preferred. The doors, as strong as the castle doors, were made of iron.

Caravanserais were built along roads running from Antalya - Konya - Kayseri to the land of Turkomans passing through Erzurum and Tabriz and from the Black Sea region to Iraq via Amasya - Tokat - Sivas - Malatya -Diyarbakir at a distance of 30-40km, one day camel trek.

It is possible to see some of the most beautiful examples of caravanserais in the region of  Cappadocia, especially between Aksaray and Kayseri,  since it is an intersection, east to west and south to north; Sultanhan in Aksaray, Agzikarahan in Aksaray, Saruhan in Nevsehir and Sultanhan in Kayseri."

More info on Cappadocia's Silk Road History http://www.cappadociainfo.com/cappadocia-history/seljuk.html