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Day 95 - At Bashy Print E-mail
Sunday, 25 June 2006

This morning Azamat decided that we should visit the bazaar as it was Saturday and the animal market would be in full swing. It was again hot as we made our way through the crowds alomg a dusty road to the market. A couple of hundred metres from the entrance people had already set up ramshackle and probably unofficial stalls selling various unwanted household items including sofas, beds and fridges. The animal market was a throng of sheep, goats, cows and horses mingled with a people  jostling to find their animals at the best price. The animals themselves looked rather bored by the whole affair, bleating or neighing occasionally as if to let everyone know they were there. Prices seemed reasonable at $75 for a sheep and $1000 for a horse (incidentally the price of a second hand Lada also that had made its way into the market and was for sale) but I resisted the temptation to purchase a DIY supper.

Customers left with their goods, some happily walking to the waiting trucks, others being dragged and making it hard work for their new owner. Most of the trucks were apparently headed for Bishkek where they could be sold at a higher price in the animal market there. The animals were squeezed into whatever space was available even if it meant several Kyrgyz men had to beat the poor beast into submission and then push it in.

We finally left Kochkor at lunchtime and headed for the rather unknown town of At Bashy 120km further south and set in some breathtaking scenery. The town itself is situated on a long, broad plain with a wall of mountains rising up majestically to the east and capped with the last remains of the winter snow. Unfortunately it’s not the most inspiring place in Kyrgyzsatan but it was a good place to base ourselves for the night before our three day trek. We stayed in the house of the local trek co-ordinator, Tursan, who while welcoming didn’t seem to be much good at organizing the trek – I suppose we will see how it all turns out and just pray!

One of the only interesting sights is a bizarre cemetery set atop an outcrop of rock to the west of town. It is a mostly muslim cemetery with mounds of earth representing graves. However those who had more money have built themselves (or rather had built for them) miniature shrines in the shapes of metallic yurts or old mud-brick castles. Morbid maybe, but fascinating.\

On our way back I was feeling thirsty and so thought I’d stop at one of the road-side stalls that appeared to be selling water. But for some reason the boy behind the stall would only tell me the price of water and then remained silent as I tried to indicate that I would like to actually buy one. Nothing would work and for five minutes he stood staring back at me as if I was asking him to bring me a piece of the moon. I wondered why you would set up a street side shop unless you actually wanted to sell anything, but it was just another one of those wonderful Central Asian moments that defy logic I suppose!

 
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